Nunavut: Undiscovered Wonder

Pond Inlet, Nunavut

Nunavut is one of the last frontiers on earth for a unique travel experience. Few people have ventured to Canada’s newest territory, a world very different from the more heavily populated Canadian centres closer to the U.S. border. In a way, one cannot say that one has truly 'seen' Canada without visiting the territories to the North. The vast expanses of ice and snow really defy description; there is an untouched beauty present that is definitely surreal. From the towering mountains of Baffin Island to the tundra of the Hudson Bay Lowlands, all the varied landscapes here are awe-inspiring.




HISTORY

Human settlement of Nunavut dates from at least 4,000 years ago. In 1576 Britain's Sir Martin Frobisher landed on Baffin Island in search of the Northwest Passage - a hoped-for shortcut to the Orient. It was also believed that there would be gold here, so in 1578 Frobisher established a settlement at what is now Iqaluit (formerly Frobisher Bay), the territorial capital. However, neither the passage nor gold were found, so for the next 200 years not much interest was shown in the area. In 1845 the ill-fated Franklin expedition disappeared here, with 128 lives lost. The actual Northwest Passage was not discovered until 1845, and as it ran through the frozen waters of the Arctic archipelago, it was hardly of any practical use. The British, and subsequently the Canadian governments became more interested in the region because of its wealth of minerals. The region became part of the vast Northwest Territories (NWT) , which at one time included present day Alberta, Saskatchewan, and the Yukon, as well as the present-day NWT and Nunavut.

In the second half of the twentieth-century what is now Nunavut was very important in terms of Cold War strategy, and there were important NATO bases set up in the territory. The re-settlement of Nunavut's people from their nomadic existence into villages in the 1960's was at best controversial. At about this time, pressure started to mount to give the region's people greater autonomy. In 1982 it was decided to hold a plebiscite, in which 56% of voters elected to split the NWT and create Nunavut. In 1992 the Canadian Parliament approved the Nunavut Land Claims Act, and this was a prelude to the official creation of Nunavut on April 1st 1999.

CLIMATE

	Wildflowers on the Tundra

Summer in this region, while certainly not hot, can be pleasant and the July average is well above zero. Always bring warm clothing though, as the weather can be unpredictable and it can snow at any time of year. Tour operators or a local guide company will advise on what to bring in terms of clothing and equipment. Much of the territory is covered with ice the whole year. The ground that is not ice-covered feels relatively warm, and for a short time during the year, is covered in the magnificent blooming wildflowers and other plants that the area is known for. However a few inches underneath the surface is hard permafrost that reaches 1000 m (1094 yd) into the earth. Of course the best feature of summer here is the Midnight Sun. The further north you are, the longer this phenomenon lasts. In Resolute, for example, the days of twenty-four hour sunshine last from approximately April 29th to August 13th. Further south in Rankin Inlet there is a maximum of 18 hours of sunshine.

The Aurora Borealis - Northern Lights

In winter everything happens in reverse. Resolute has 24 hours of complete darkness for three months from around November 6th to February 5th, whereas in Rankin Inlet there is at least three hours of daylight even in the depth of winter. Of course in Nunavut these dark days do have an added bonus. The magnificent Northern Lights, or Aurora Borealis light up the sky. Some people visit here in winter, just to witness this remarkable spectacle.

TRANSPORTATION

Unless you are visiting Nunavut on one of the luxury small-ship adventure cruises that occasionally call there, the only way to reach Nunavut is by air. Similarly within the territory, air transportation is the only means to get from one community to another. The airport at Iqaluit is linked from Ottawa and Montreal, and with many communities within the territory. Yellowknife in the NWT is a major hub for air service all over NWT and Nunavut, and has regular service from Edmonton with connections there from points further afield. Rankin Inlet has regular flights from Winnipeg. Many smaller communities in Nunavut can be reached only by charter aircraft.

HIGHLIGHTS OF NUNAVUT

Nunavut is not like a traditional destination in that a visitor will make a list in advance of the sights and attractions they would like to see. Nunavut is more about experience, and these experiences can be both natural and cultural. There is so much in Nunavut within these two categories that any visitor is likely to have a multitude of experiences that will provide fond memories for a lifetime.

Auyuittuq National Park Reserve is Canada's third largest at 21,500 sq km (8301 sq mi). The name of the park means 'the land that never melts.' This untouched wilderness consists of great mountains, valleys, fjords and meadows. The scenery is without question among the best anywhere in North America. In the snow-free period between late June and early September it is possible to hike the 97 km (60.2 mi) Aksayook Pass. The pass is also great for cross country skiing. Mount Thor is popular with rock climbers, as it is the highest uninterrupted cliff face in the world.

The undeveloped land of Nunavut makes it a haven for wildlife, including whales, seals, narwhals and walrus in the frigid seas, and giant polar bears and large herds of caribou and muskoxen on the land. Perhaps most spectacular are the seemingly everlasting flocks of birds that fly north to rear their young in the continual daylight that the summer brings. Birdwatching is a joy here, with the wide variety of birds flying over and nesting in the vast open landscape and shoreline.

	A Herd of Caribou

One of the best ways to see Nunavut and its great natural attributes is from a canoe or kayak along one of the many rivers or along the shores of the Arctic Sea. There are so many bodies of water to choose from. The water is a great viewpoint to observe much of the wildlife of Nunavut. Sea kayaking enables you to get up close to many of the sea mammals and birds. In the fjords of Baffin Island you can paddle alongside giant icebergs. River kayaking is another outstanding way of seeing wildlife. Often you will come across a herd of caribou fording a river, their antlers stretching in a line across one bank to the other like a bridge. Along the peaceful tundra rivers of the south you will witness the large flocks of many bird species that nest here, including snow geese. Nunavut has many wild rapids, so whitewater rafting by canoe or raft is exceptional.

Soapstone Carving from Cape Dorset, Nunavut

To spend time with the people of Nunavut is a very rich adventure, as it is an opportunity to witness a unique and precious culture. The Inuit people (as the indigenous people of Nunavut are known) used to be known as Eskimos, but this is actually a fairly derogatory term, and is not in common use anymore. The culture was built on a tradition of hunting and fishing, in particular for whale which provided so much in the way of food and other essentials. Archaeological remains of the villages of the earlier settlers can be found all over the Arctic. Visit any of the small, close-knit communities here and you will be able to sample the unique First Nations heritage. The arts and crafts produced here are magnificent, and are often created from bones, tusks and animal skins. Paintings, dolls, fabrics, prints and jewellry are all excellent buys. Of particular note is the world famous Inuit soapstone carving and sculpture.

	Ice Fishing at Gjoa Haven

The history of the Inuit has only been available in print form or other media in very recent times. The history and legends have mostly been preserved in stories and songs, passed down from one generation to the next. The hunting and fishing traditions of the Inuit are often a main focus of these tales. As you travel through Nunavut, your Inuit guide will tell you many stories such as that of the whale fishery, and the perils that the hunters had to face to ensure their livelihood. Take a trip in a dog sleigh, gather round the campfire and hear the peoples' personal stories - always fascinating. Wherever a traveller visits in Nunavut, they will be sure to receive the warm welcome that has always been a part of the Inuit tradition.